What I find incredibly fascinating about enameled watches is their ability to transform a simple timepiece into a true work of art. For those of us who are passionate about watchmaking, as I assume you are, grand complications, meticulous finishing, a beautifully crafted dial, or a finely shaped case are already synonymous with artistry. Yet when it comes to enamel designs, even someone with little knowledge of horology can’t help but be captivated.
But what is really an enamel dial?
Enameling is one of the oldest artistic crafts in watchmaking, a meticulous process where glass-based powders are fired to create vibrant, enduring dials. The work demands extraordinary skill, as colors often change unpredictably during firing, and even the slightest flaw can ruin the result, so much so that up to 75% of dials are discarded. It’s this rarity and fragility that make a perfect enamel dial a true work of art.
In this article, I’d like to introduce you to five enameled watches that stand apart from the crowd, hoping you’ll discover something new, whether vintage or modern.
Urwerk UR-100V Time and Culture III
I chose to begin with this watch for a reason. Not long ago, after seeing the first photos of it on Instagram following its launch, I was inspired to search the web for other unusual enamel timepieces, a search that eventually led to this very article.
Urwerk recently unveiled a creation unlike anything in their usual collection: the UR-100V with a gold dial brought to life through 24K cloisonné enamel. Its design takes inspiration from a zodiac fresco in Georgia’s historic Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, portraying Christ surrounded by twelve celestial symbols that mark not only the hours, but also the months and zodiac signs, a poetic expression of the union between time and eternity.
The result is a striking contrast: a religious scene rendered with age-old enameling techniques and meticulous detail, paired with Urwerk’s signature wandering hours and a case shape that boldly departs from classical watchmaking traditions.
Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Tennis Player
A watch that lends itself beautifully to personalization is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Thanks to its reversible case, originally conceived in the 1930s to protect the dial, it soon became a canvas for unique engravings, often limited to the owner’s initials, but sometimes enhanced with enamel to add depth and dimension.
But I promised to show you something different, didn’t I? The piece in question is indeed an enameled Reverso, yet here the dial itself has been transformed into a miniature painting. It depicts a tennis player, finished with remarkable attention to detail, even down to the hat he wears, on what appears to be a grass court, set against a soft blue backdrop at the top of the dial.
This particular watch appeared at an Italian auction three years ago, while a similar example, featuring what looked more like a clay court, surfaced at Christie’s a few years earlier. Commissioning such a piece in the 1940s must have required not only refined taste but also a deep passion for the sport. One wonders whether, today, that same collector might opt for an RM Nadal to wear on the court. In any case, both the idea and execution of this Reverso earn top marks.
Ulysse Nardin San Marco, 25 amazing vessels
What I find truly fascinating about enameled timepieces is their uniqueness, and with this limited collection of just 25 pieces, Ulysse Nardin has fully embraced that idea.
Among the few watchmakers that have truly mastered the demanding art of enameling, Ulysse Nardin stands out. Over the years, the brand has created some extraordinary masterpieces using this age-old technique.
The series I want to highlight today is a limited edition of 25 watches, each featuring a different historically significant ship. Some of these include the Amerigo Vespucci, the USS Constitution, and the Mayflower, each one brought to life in vivid enamel detail.
For collectors seeking to add an enameled piece to their collection, Ulysse Nardin’s creations offer a surprisingly accessible entry point. Prices are often more modest than one might expect, though patience and a bit of luck are required to find one.
Rolex “Oyster” Peacock
Rolex is one of the few brands that, for several years, created extraordinary enamel timepieces, often fulfilling special commissions with incredible attention to detail, executed by some of the most skilled artisans in the field.
You’ve probably come across vintage Rolex watches at auction fetching sky-high prices, many of them adorned with remarkable enamel scenes: Neptune, seahorses, Viking ships… each dial a small masterpiece.
But the watch I want to share today is something quite different. Instead of myth or maritime motifs, it features a stunning white peacock, its feathers fully spread in elegant symmetry. Shades of blue in the plumage echo the background, creating a serene, almost dreamlike composition.
And there’s one more unusual detail: the dial also bears the enamel inscription Rolex Oyster, a nod to the watch’s water resistance. It’s a curious contrast, considering an enamel Rolex isn’t exactly the first watch you’d think of wearing underwater.
Patek Philippe Calatrava New York’s Blue Note Jazz Club
For the final timepiece in this selection, I chose a modern watch from a brand that has long made enameling one of its signature strengths, Patek Philippe. Over the years, the maison has produced some truly breathtaking creations that showcase both artistic mastery and bold creative vision.
To celebrate its heritage and the remarkable talents of its artisans, Patek has, for several years now, released special themed collections, usually available only to top clients and often inspired by the cities where these exhibitions are held.
One such piece is the Ref. 5089, a stunning Calatrava limited to just ten examples, created as a tribute to New York’s legendary Blue Note Jazz Club. The dial doesn’t just depict two musicians in performance, it also features the opening notes of Sidney Bechet’s iconic Petite Fleur, rendered delicately in enamel.
This watch is not only a testament to Patek’s artisanal excellence, but also to its ability to think beyond tradition in crafting truly special pieces.
And for your dream watch, what kind of dream enamel design would you choose to bring to life?
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