H. Moser & Cie is an independent watch brand that found new lifeblood in the last decade, riding the wave of high-end independent watchmaking but always keeping a distinct style. Last year, they showcased their expertise in the world of haute horology, where craftsmanship and technical ingenuity reign supreme, with the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon as a shining example of watchmaking excellence combining the innovative prowess of H. Moser & Cie in the field of hairsprings with their signature minimalist design language. Merging a plain aesthetic with a mesmerising cylindrical tourbillon, this timepiece is a testament to Moser’s unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, realising a watch that few can match.
Watch description
The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon exemplifies the timeless elegance that H. Moser & Cie is renowned for. Crafted with a 42.8mm stainless steel case, the watch strikes a perfect balance between contemporary proportions and understated sophistication. The brushed finishes and clean lines create a minimalist aesthetic that captivates the eye, perfectly blending simplicity and elegance. The very thin bezel leaves space for a complete view of the skeletonized movement, where the dial is small and positioned at 12 o’clock while the cylindrical tourbillon, being almost as large as the dial, takes the first stage. The dial itself showcases Moser’s distinctive fumé effect, a gradient colouration that subtly shifts with the lighting conditions. Embracing the brand’s minimalist design ethos, the dial features elegant baton hour markers and slender hands made from the same luminous material as the indexes. The absence of numerals or excessive detailing enhances the watch’s refined and uncluttered aesthetic, by keeping the dial simple they ensure that the star of the show, the cylindrical tourbillon, takes centre stage. The sapphire crystal exhibition case back provides a mesmerising view of the movement’s intricate workings, creating a harmonious blend of elegance and technical mastery.
Uncommon tourbillon design
At the heart of the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon lies its crowning jewel, the cylindrical tourbillon. This horological complication represents an exceptional feat of engineering and showcases Moser’s relentless pursuit of innovation and deep knowledge about hairspring manufacturing, setting this watch apart from the crowd. Unlike traditional tourbillons, which employ a flat balance spring, the cylindrical tourbillon boasts a rare cylindrical balance spring which is a rarity in watchmaking. This feature enhances the timekeeping accuracy by improving the movement’s isochronism, compensating for the effect of gravity on the balance wheel by providing a nearly perfect centre of gravity. Positioned prominently at 6 o’clock, the cylindrical tourbillon gracefully rotates on its axis, mesmerising the observer with its intricate beauty, creating a sense of three-dimensionality that few other watches can claim. This cylindrical design, also known as helical or spherical is often associated with old-school marine chronometers or table watches while only a few watchmakers have bothered to put it into a wristwatch, of these I have to mention the results obtained by Montblanc, Jaeger LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin even if none, in my opinion, have been able of integrating it with the design of the watch as Moser did. Of course, also the creations of MB&F immediately come to mind, with the balance wheel being moved to the centre of the dial, but here thanks to the very deep skeletonization of the movement the tourbillon seems to live on its own. The attention to detail in its construction and finishing is extraordinary, highlighting the brand’s commitment to excellence. The constant motion and precision engineering elevate the aesthetics of the watch to a new level and, together with the delicately chamfered edges, polished surfaces, and exquisite anglage, they testify to the exceptional craftsmanship of H. Moser & Cie andcaptivate horology enthusiasts and collectors alike.
The calibre
Powering the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon is the fully skeletonized in-house calibre HMC 810, an automatic movement that exemplifies the brand’s commitment to uncompromising craftsmanship merging together traditional watchmaking techniques with modern design. With a power reserve of approximately 74 hours, this movement ensures exceptional timekeeping accuracy and longevity, even during periods of non-use thanks to the one-minute flying tourbillon that moves the mainspring to average the effect of gravity. The hacking seconds function allows for precise time-setting, further enhancing the watch’s practicality. The movement’s finishing is a testament to Moser’s dedication to detail with the bridges adorned with exquisite Côtes de Genève and perlage patterns, adding a touch of artistry to the watch’s inner workings. Observing the movement through the sapphire crystal case back reveals the full skeletonized 18K solid gold rotor that leaves in full view the calibre. The dark grey bridges resemble an intricate spider net expanding from the centre of the watch and the fully exposed components, from the gears to the mainspring, give the sense of being inside the watch in a truly astonishing three-dimensional experience focused on the depth of the movement. This is indeed the true marvel of this watch, the open work is so deep that merely the strictly needed structural elements have been kept in place, revealing a symphony of mechanical precision and beauty that showcases the brand’s expertise and mastery of horological complications.
Watchype view
The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon is more than just a sophisticated timepiece, it is designed to be worn and enjoyed daily by those who can afford its €79.000 price tag. With a water resistance of 120 metres, it offers practicality beyond its luxurious appearance, ensuring that it is more than just a display piece. The watch comes on a comfortable hand-stitched black alligator leather with a steel folding clasp, combining modernity and sportiness while ensuring a secure fit on the wrist. Its versatility allows it to seamlessly transition from formal occasions to more casual settings, making it a timepiece for all occasions.
The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon stands as an exceptional horological masterpiece, showcasing the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. From its minimalist design and captivating aesthetics to the mesmerising cylindrical tourbillon and impeccable movement, this timepiece exemplifies Moser’s unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, positioning itself as a true high-end watchmaker. Whether you are a seasoned horology enthusiast or a collector seeking a remarkable addition to your collection, the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon offers an unparalleled experience that transcends time, proposing a hypnotic view given by the three-dimensionality of the cylindrical tourbillon first and the whole skeletonized movement later. With its technical brilliance and sublime elegance, this watch stands as a shining testament to Moser’s unwavering commitment to excellence in the art of watchmaking.
Finally, I would like to personally thank Jacopo Corvo and the team of GMT Italy for giving me the opportunity to go hands-on with this marvellous watch and explaining the technicalities and the history behind the brand.
