21 April 2024


By In Brands, Cartier, General

As the curtains rise on Watches & Wonders 2024, Cartier presents a symphony of sophistication and savoir-faire, inviting aficionados on a journey through the realms of horological excellence. With a legacy spanning over a century, Cartier has consistently redefined the boundaries of watchmaking, seamlessly blending tradition with contemporary flair. Here below you can find an overview of Cartier’s novelties.

Cartier Tortue

Starting with the Cartier Tortue, this is a legendary timepiece that holds a significant place in the history of watchmaking. Its story dates back to the early 20th century when Louis Cartier, in 1912, introduced the Tortue, which translates to “turtle” in French, named after its distinctive shape reminiscent of a tortoise shell. The Cartier Tortue featured a curved case with elongated sides, creating a unique silhouette that caught the attention of watch enthusiasts and connoisseurs.

The Tortue quickly became a symbol of elegance and sophistication, favored by royalty, celebrities, and discerning collectors alike. Its Art Deco-inspired design, with clean lines and refined details, reflected the style and spirit of the era. Over the decades, the Cartier Tortue has evolved while retaining its timeless appeal. It has been produced in various sizes, materials, and complications, showcasing Cartier’s mastery of watchmaking craftsmanship and innovation. From simple time-only models to intricate high-complication pieces, the Tortue continues to captivate watch aficionados with its blend of tradition and modernity.

This year at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Cartier has reintroduced the Tortue shape within the Collection Prive Cartier Paris as a series of limited edition models. Two mono-pusher chronographs have been introduced, one in yellow gold and the other in platinum, while the three time-only versions are in yellow gold, and in platinum with and without diamonds.

Cartier Tortue monopusher chronograph collection presented at Watches & Wonders 2024
Cartier Tortue mono-pusher chronograph – Photo courtesy of Cartier
Cartier Tortue time-only collection presented at Watches & Wonders 2024
Cartier Tortue time-only – Photo courtesy of Cartier

Starting from the Monopussier, this builds on the historical roots of the Tortue, which was presented as a mono-pusher chronograph with a movement made in a collaboration between Cartier and Edmond Jaeger, yes that Jaeger. The new movement is revealed through the sapphire case back the Cartier’s manufacture calibre 1928MC, which showcases a column wheel chronograph with Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and beats at 4 Hz with a 44-hour power reserve. The yellow gold version has printed black Roman numerals, in true Cartier fashion, while the platinum has applied Roman numerals but both share an opaline dial and blued Breguet-styled hands. Cartier will produce 200 pieces for each precious metal.

Cartier Tortue mono-pusher chronograph with platinum case presented at Watches and Wonders 2024
Cartier Tortue mono-pusher chronograph with platinum case – Photo courtesy of Cartier

The time-only version was introduced for the first time in 1928, and Cartier has not drastically changed its original shape. This has the same design as the chronograph, both in materials and dials, but the hands are in yellow gold or platinum, which will be produced in 200 pieces each. In addition, there is a platinum version covered with 54 diamonds, only 50 pieces will be available. 

The distinctive feature of the Cartier Tortue has to be its case shape, this is almost unique in the Cartier catalogue, which is dominated by more edgy shapes. Its distinctive shape, elegant design, and prestigious lineage have solidified its status as a symbol of sophistication and luxury within the Cartier catalogue and the world of luxury watches.

Cartier Tortue time-only with yellow gold case presnted at Watches and Wonders 2024
Cartier Tortue time-only with yellow gold case – Photo courtesy of Cartier
Cartier Santos

Another important collection for Cartier is the Santos, introduced back in 1904 as the first wristwatch of the brand. This year, the collection Santos de Cartier has received two new amazing dials, a grey fumé and a dark brown fumé (almost tropical) which closely resembles watches from the seventies. The brown dial will be available in the medium and large models, both for the steel and the yellow gold versions.

Cartier Santos de Cartier presented at Watches and Wonders 2024
Cartier Santos de Cartier presented at Watches and Wonders 2024 – Photo courtesy of Cartier

Furthermore, the Santos collection has been also enriched with a brand new version that combines a stunning “large version” case with a slate grey dial, featuring a date and the dual dime complication displayed in a subdial at six o’clock (together with a night and day indicator).

Cartier Santos de Cartier dual time presented at Watches & Wonders 2024
Cartier Santos de Cartier dual time – Photo courtesy of Cartier
Santos Dumont

The novelties to the Santos collection do not stop here. Indeed, the Santos Dumont has seen the addition of three lacquer models, with a colorful trilogy of pieces in olive green, blue peacock and taupe grey, featuring cases in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold, respectively. Interestingly, all these watches have Arabic numerals, breaking the Cartier tradition.

Cartier Santos Dumont presented at Watches & Wonders 2024
Cartier Santos Dumont presented at Watches & Wonders 2024 – Photo courtesy of Cartier
Cartier Santos Dumont with platinum case and running anti-clockwise
Cartier Santos Dumont with platinum case and running anti-clockwise – Photo courtesy of Cartier

But maybe the most interesting Dumont is the new Rewind, limited to 200 pieces, which may seem like a regular Dumont in platinum, with a stunning deep red dial. At a closer look though, the numerals of the watch are read anticlockwise suggesting that the manual winding 230MC movement features an inverted rotation. This isn’t a totally new complication for Cartier, since in the 90s a special edition of the Santos Galbee for the Asian market was commercialized, with this precise complication.

The overview about Cartier’s novelties is completed by the article dedicated to the Jewelry timepieces written by Aurora, which can be found here.

Watchype view

As the curtains draw to a close on the unveiling of Cartier’s novelties at Watches and Wonders 2024, one cannot help but be enamoured by the Maison’s unwavering commitment to innovation, elegance, and craftsmanship. In a world where time is fleeting and trends come and go, Cartier remains a steadfast beacon of timeless sophistication and artistic expression. With every stroke of the brush and every precision-engineered movement, Cartier continues to redefine the boundaries of luxury and style, leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology.

As we bid farewell to Watches and Wonders 2024, we carry with us the memory of Cartier’s novelties, a reminder of the enduring allure of fine craftsmanship and the timeless elegance of the Maison. In the ever-evolving landscape of luxury, Cartier stands as a testament to the enduring power of creativity, innovation, and the pursuit of excellence.

Written by Giovanni Andrean

Born in 1999, energy engineer and truly passionate about watches since he was a teenager. He is attracted from the mechanical marvel of watches and their strong heritage in the same way one could be attracted by a piece of art.