When talking about the legendary Patek Philippe Nautilus, most conversations begin with the first Nautilus Ref. 3700. Introduced in 1976, and designed by Gerald Genta, the iconic 3700 “Jumbo” was the first Nautilus and laid the foundation for what would become one of the most important luxury sports watches ever created.
But if I had to keep only one Nautilus forever, it would not be the Ref. 3700.
It would be the Ref. 3800.
From One Icon to Four Pillars
By the early 1980s, Patek Philippe expanded the Nautilus line into what became the three pillars of the collection:
- Ref. 3700 – the original 42 mm “Jumbo”
- Ref. 3800 – the mid-size automatic model, introduced in 1981
- Ref. 3900 – the 33 mm quartz, mid-size, unisex
- Ref. 4700 – the 27 mm quartz model (introduced one year before the 3800), primarily aimed at women
Reference Variants
The 3800 was also available in a wider range of metals and configurations than its predecessor, which maybe enhanced its appeal even more. It was available in the version 3800/1A where the ‘a’ stands acier which means steel in French.
The 3800/1J with the ‘j’ meaning jaune = gold, and finally 3800/1AJ in two-tone, steel and yellow gold.
The Core Differences
While they seemed visually similar at a first glance, the differences are still noticeable in the two references. First of all the case; While the Ref. 3700 ‘Jumbo’ was bigger with a total diameter of 42 mm and a slightly thicker case, the 3800 had a case diameter of 37.5-38 mm and was slightly thinner in profile. Another big adaptation was the movement. While the 3700 had a caliber named 28-255 C, that featured no central second hand, the 3800 had the updated automatic movement called Cal. 335 SC (second centrale) with a central sweeping second hand. On of the few similarities is, that both models have the date window at 3 o’clock.
The 3800 marked a strategic evolution. At 37.5–38 mm, it was noticeably smaller than the 42 mm 3700, making it far more wearable for a wider audience. In many ways, it seemed more refined, adapted and attractive to a wider audience.
What is interesting to know at this point, is that the 3800 was surprisingly more expensive than the Jumbo at the time it was launched. In a 1982 German price list, the 3800 steel model cost 7.500 DM (3.000 USD) and the 3700 Jumbo cost only 7.100 DM (2.800 USD). Possibly because the 3800 was a newer model that featured a center-seconds hand, and the updated movement and novelty of the model justified the price increase.
Nowadays, ref. 3700 watches range from € 70.000 up to almost 300.000 €, depending on if they are two-tone, steel only or full-gold models, reaching crazy prices for unique configurations. It’s younger brother, the 3800 already starts at around 35.000 € and goes up to € 80.000 + for full-gold models. This shows, that even though the ref. 3800 might be more universally wearable, the 3700 is valued at more than double the price, because it is the iconic and first Nautilus ever produced.
Why the 3800 now?!
One major point that makes the 3800 a lot appealing to me though, is the iconic Sigma dial. In the early 3800’s, Patek produced a dial stamped with a sigma letter (s) at 6 o’clock, something you can find difficult on 3700. This meant, that the indexes were manufactured in full-gold. Furthermore, the dial often fades from grey, over blue to slightly green hues, which shines differently from every angle and depending on the light. It gives the watch a truly interesting and unique sparkle.
The specific watch shown in the picture above was auctioned in December 2025 at Antiquorum for a fair price of € 49.856.
The Ref. 3700 will always be the first ever Nautilus that is most desirable for watch collectors, however, the 3800 is the one I would keep. At 38 mm it sits perfectly on the wrist, elegant but also sporty, easy and clean. It slides effortlessly under even the tightest shirt cuff and feels light and more integrated, almost like a body part. Sometimes it is even barely noticeable. The bracelet wraps around the wrist like a soft steel hug that you never want to let go.
The 3700 may be the original icon.
But the 3800 is the watch I’d wear every day.
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