We had the chance to visit the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan, and seeing the watches in person gives a very different perspective compared to simply looking at press images.
Until October 18, CityOval has been transformed into a 3,000-square-metre celebration of Patek Philippe, bringing together around 500 timepieces, from historical pieces and rare handcrafts to the latest creations presented exclusively for Milan.
The Star of the Milan Edition
Among the seven limited editions created for the exhibition, the one that immediately caught our attention is the new Ref. 5978P-010.
It combines a platinum case with a blue sunburst dial and red details, but the real significance is inside: for the first time, Patek Philippe combines its manually wound chronograph with an instantaneous perpetual calendar, creating the new CH 29-535 PS QI calibre. The watch will be limited to 120 pieces, it is a surprisingly contemporary interpretation of one of Patek’s most traditional complications.
Having seen it in person, the 42 mm case gives the watch a strong presence without compromising the elegance expected from a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph.
Three Watches, One Italian Identity
Patek has also created three Calatrava-based watches specifically for the Milan exhibition.
The Ref. 7047G-010 combines a minute repeater with a striking red lacquered dial, while the Ref. 7147G-010 features a green dial and a perpetual calendar. Completing the trio is a simpler time-only Ref. 7007G-010, with its white dial.
Together, the three watches reference the Italian flag in a way that is immediately recognisable while remaining relatively understated, especially considering the amount of decoration and technical content usually associated with Patek’s special editions.
Milan in Enamel
For us, some of the most fascinating pieces are the two World Time Minute Repeaters, Ref. 5531G-012 and 5531G-013. Both feature cloisonné enamel depicting Milan, with one representing the city during the day and the other at night. These are watches that are particularly difficult to appreciate through photography alone.
Having seen them up close, the depth of the enamel, the colours and the extraordinary amount of detail of the Milan Map become much more apparent, especially when combined with one of Patek’s most demanding complications. Only five examples of each version will be produced.
The Aquanaut Takes a More Casual Approach
The Ref. 5167A-014 represents a completely different side of the Milan collection. Based on the familiar steel Aquanaut, it features a blue-to-black sunburst dial, red accents and a matching blue composite strap, with 250 pieces produced.
Among the new releases, this is probably the most immediately wearable watch and the one that feels closest to the contemporary side of Patek Philippe. It retains everything that makes the 5167 recognisable while adding enough colour and exclusivity to make it genuinely different from the regular collection.
Why Milan Makes Sense
There is something particularly fitting about bringing this exhibition to Milan. The city has always had a strong relationship with design, craftsmanship and collecting, and the Italian market has historically appreciated watches not only as status symbols but also as objects of culture and design. After seeing the exhibition in person, the impression is that Patek Philippe has managed to use Milan not simply as a location for another travelling exhibition, but as an opportunity to create watches that genuinely reflect the city and its culture.
For a few weeks, Milan therefore becomes a particularly interesting place for anyone wanting to understand Patek Philippe beyond the most recognisable names in its catalogue. The Watch Art Grand Exhibition is ultimately a look at the broader world behind the name, and seeing it all together makes that world considerably easier to appreciate.
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