We mourn the loss of a fashion icon who profoundly shaped the industry, and in his memory, we want to present and reflect on the watches he personally wore.
Giorgio Armani, born in 1934 in Piacenza, Italy, began his journey in fashion as a window dresser before moving on to design for Nino Cerruti in the 1960s. In 1975, together with Sergio Galeotti, he launched his own label and soon revolutionized men’s fashion with the unstructured suit jacket, offering a look that was both elegant and comfortable. His minimalist style, defined by clean lines and sophistication quickly became a signature. The real turning point came in 1980 when Richard Gere wore Armani suits in American Gigolo, catapulting the brand into Hollywood and international fame. From there, Armani expanded beyond menswear into women’s fashion, fragrances, accessories, and even lifestyle ventures like hotels, building a global empire known for its timeless and understated elegance.
Patek Philippe 5110 J
The first watch I want to talk about is Giorgio’s Patek Philippe Ref. 5110J, a 37mm World Time in yellow gold. In my opinion this watch is completely undervalued. Think about it: you can pick up a worldtime complication – a very tricky mechanism to build – for around € 27.000, and it’s from Patek Philippe! Meanwhile, plenty of other brands charge even more for simple stainless-steel time-only pieces, which in comparison to this is not understandable at all.
The 5110J really captures Armani’s sense of understated elegance and shows that his refined taste went beyond fashion—he had a real appreciation for elegant, complicated watches, especially from Patek.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu
Another interesting watch is the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu, a 39 mm piece in tantalum. It’s one of those watches that looks quite understated at first, but the deep blue dial has an incredible presence in the light. Inside, it carries the same level of craftsmanship F.P. Journe is known for, making it a favorite among collectors.
Even Vladimir Putin has been seen wearing one, which shows how far its appeal reaches. It’s elegant without being loud, and that makes it fit perfectly with someone like Armani, who always valued quiet sophistication.
Patek Philippe 5101P
Another fascinating piece in Armani’s collection is his Patek Philippe Ref. 5101P-010, the 10-Day Tourbillon in platinum with a salmon dial and beautiful Breguet numerals. I really love this combination, it gives the watch a refined, almost vintage charm. The cheapest example I’ve seen on Chrono24 is listed for € 139.900, which, considering what it is, feels justified. To put it in perspective, Monaco Legend Group sold a similar model in April 2024 at auction.
It was the reference 5101R in pink gold, without the salmon dial and it fetched € 110.500 including buyer’s premium. This is a watch that is not easy to pull off, given its bold rectangular case, but Armani could wear it effortlessly, which says a lot about his confidence and style.
Audemars Piguet 56175 ST
The watch Armani is wearing in this photo is the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 56175ST, a slimmer and more refined take on Gérald Genta’s legendary design. Produced mainly in the 1980s and 1990s, the 56175ST kept the iconic Royal Oak DNA, the octagonal bezel with exposed screws, the integrated bracelet, and the “Petite Tapisserie” dial, but offered it in a thinner, more understated profile.
Armani’s choice of this watch fits perfectly with his philosophy: just as he revolutionized fashion with minimalist tailoring and quiet elegance, he wore a timepiece that embodied the same principles of subtle refinement and timeless style.
Patek Philippe 5940R
Apparently, Armani liked Patek a lot, otherwise, the final piece I am writing about would not be another heavy hitter by the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer. It is a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5940R-001, a watch that blends history, elegance, and complexity. The 5940 pairs a cushion-shaped yellow gold case with one of Patek’s most iconic complications, the perpetual calendar, which they were the first to put in a wristwatch back in 1925.
This version comes on a brown alligator strap, with a cream dial, gold leaf-style hands, and Arabic numerals. The three sub-dials display day and 12-hour time, month and leap year, plus date and moonphase, all laid out in perfect symmetry, which is what I love most about it. It’s not a small watch, but its refined proportions fit Armani’s elegant, classic style perfectly. The symmetry of the dial and the elegant fit on the wrist make it a classic timeless piece.
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