The Geneva Watch weeks rarely disappoint, and neither did this year. Among the various novelties presented during the Genevan days, the new Rose Gold Tourbillon by Daniel Roth drew the attention of the visitors and stimulated the interest of the old school collectors.
Daniel Roth rebirth
When the last year LVMH group announced the release of a new model inspired by the works of Daniel Roth, many watch enthusiasts had serious hopes of a new life for the independent watch-brand launched by Mr. Roth after his long standing and prestigious career at Breguet, carrying on the legacy of the legendary watchmaker. These hopes of a revival were fulfilled when the Tourbillon Souscription was revealed as a piece coherent with the previous production of Daniel Roth, both for his days at Breguet and as one of the first prominent independent watchmakers. Indeed, the double ellipse tourbillons were the most significative and defining models of his production and remain, to this day, extremely appreciated and sought after.
A new tourbillon model
The new interpretation of the Tourbillon presented during the Geneva Watch Days takes inspiration from the widely renowned C187 model, sporting some innovations. The most significative change is without doubt the use of 5N rose gold, instead of yellow gold, both for the 38.6 x 35.5 mm case and the dial, a step aside from Mr. Roth’s previous production. The stunning dial was handcrafted in Kari Voutilainen’s laboratories, which had already been involved in the creation of the Sousctiption, and is characterized by a rather unusual vertical pattern, a “guillochage en ligne”. The motif beautifully pays homage to the distinctive guilloché work of the original C187 models.
The rose gold sets a nice contrast with the silver used for the beautiful tourbillon which is set on the bottom half of the dial, in pure Daniel Roth style. Further contrast is conveyed by the markings printed in glossy black lacquer and the black-coated stainless steel hands.
Equally exquisite is the back of the watch, openly displaying trough a sapphire crystal caseback the manual winding DR001 movement, which was previously covered by a solid gold plate in the Souscription, capable of a providing 80 hours power reserve. The caliber was developed in house by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, master watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps. In particular, the watchmakers motivated their choice of using rose gold saying that the pink on pink combination of case and dial evokes “many significant historical timepieces, both wrist and pocket watches, that are both desirable and beautiful”.
Price, availability and appreciation
A limited number of about 50 pieces will be released in 2025 with a price tag of 155.000 CHF, which should not surprise considering the high level of craftmanship necessary for the handmde creation of the dials and the technically remarkable manual winding tourbillon movement. Coherently with the previous production of Mr. Roth, each piece will be individually numbered on the dial starting from 21, picking up from where the Tourbillon Souscription, released in twenty pieces only, left off.
The Rose Gold Tourbillon received a warm welcome from the collectors’ community and the general feedback is that the current revival of Daniel Roth managed by La Fabrique du Temps and LVMH is extremely respectful of the Master’s work and previous production. Bringing back to life what is his most distinctive trait (the use of the tourbillon in the double ellipse case) was without doubt a serious bet, which can however be considered as won.
On the other hand, the choice of using the rose gold aims at being, at the same time, a twist from the past, aimed at marking a modernization of the Daniel Roth’s production, and the continuation of an iconic collection, fully respecting the most significant ideas and innovations introduced by Mr. Daniel Roth all the way back to his time at Breguet’s.
