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19 September 2023

HIGHLIGHTS FROM GENEVA WATCH DAYS

By In Brands, Bulgari, Corum, Konstantin Chaykin, Louis Erard, MB&F, Urwerk

In our recent articles, we have been delighted to showcase the numerous and thrilling novelties that we had the privilege to touch & feel during the genevan event. Through these highlights from Geneva Watch Days, we aim to travel trhough again this eventful week together, presenting to you six watches that left a lasting impression on us. These timepieces may not necessarily be new releases, but they certainly still stand out in our minds.

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO

The first watch we present in this article is a true masterpiece that needs no introduction, as it allowed Max Büsser and Stephen McDonnell to clinch the prestigious “Aiguille d’Or” award at the last GPHG 2022. We had the chance to try on our wrist the marvelous MB&F Sequential EVO and we were left in awe, not only by the watch itself but also by the creative genius behind MB&F. Starting from the practical need of measuring two different time events at the same time, they managed to craft a true work of art. Indeed, the MB&F Sequential EVO evolves the concept of the split seconds chronograph allowing the user to activate, operate and re-align two chronographs simultaneously.

MB&F Sequential EVO
MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO

As we were told by the folks at MB&F, while admiring their new creation and the many incredible pieces they showed us, the EVO line was born out of Max’s need for a watch that could accompany him in his daily life. Max spends most of his time working for the brand we all love, but he also wanted a watch that could serve him in less conventional situations, such as at the gym or for a swim in the pool. Above all, it serves as an excellent conversation starter for those who, upon seeing him in these unique situations, discover that he is the creator of these remarkable timepieces. The technical aspects of the double chronograph are sensational and certainly deserve an article of their own, but what truly struck us was how a mind as creative as Max Büsser’s managed to create a masterpiece out of a practical necessity.

Konstantin Chaykin Minions Titanium

As second choice, we’d like to introduce you to a truly extravagant timepiece, the titanium version of the now-famous watch born from the collaboration between Konstantin Chaykin and the Minions. Beyond the watch itself, which is sensational in blending the distinctive features of the Russian watchmaker with ones of the most beloved characters among children, we were pleasantly struck by the opportunity to meet Mr. Chaykin in person. We had the chance to exchange a few words not only about the pieces he had with him in Geneva but also about the exciting novelty that will be auctioned off at Only Watch on November 5th 2023.

Konstantin Chaykin and the Minions
Konstantin Chaykin Minions Titanium

Looking at the watch itself, we were captivated by the details that make this extravagant timepiece perfect. From the denim strap that reveals a small pocket to the incredibly faithful eyeglasses resembling the Minions’ ones, it’s truly cool!

Corum Concept Watch

Through a dedicated article, we’ve already introduced the brand-new Concept Watch presented by Corum during these Geneva Watch Days. However, we want to feature it again within these “highlights” since we truly believe it deserves the spotlight. This watch is designed to propel Corum back into the league where the top names of the watchmaking industry compete while simultaneously embracing the concept of sustainability. Not only is the case made from recycled grade 5 titanium, but also the strap and movement components incorporate sustainable materials and parts. 

Concept Watch by Corum
Corum Concept Watch

What we found most appealing, though, is the dial, which, when exposed to sunlight, creates a truly unique play of reflections. If Corum continues down this path to revitalize its brand, we can certainly expect great things ahead!

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater

Once again Bulgari managed to surprise us by expanding their Octo Finissimo collection, even if not by introducing a new complication, but through the addition of a new material combination to their catalog. Indeed, both the new Octo Finissimo time-only and perpetual calendar are entirely made of carbon with rose gold details like the indices and the hands.

However, through this recap we prefer not to focus on the two new releases. Instead, we’d like to shed light on a much less known but equally extraordinary Octo Finissimo: the ultra-thin minute repeater made by titanium.

Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater – Ref 103669

This Octo Finissimo goes beyond the conventional expectations of minute repeaters. If possible, the blue dial and the matching rubber strap give it a sporty appearance, making it suitable for a wider range of occasions. Listening to it while chiming the time is truly sensational. Thanks to the clever cuts on the dial that consitute the indices, the sound can better spread throughout the entire case and provide glimpses of some movement parts. It is certainly one of the most beautiful pieces still available on the market.

Urwerk Space-Time Blade

Within our recap we can’t mention maybe the most unconventional timepiece we spot during the Genevan exhibition. We’re talking about the Space-Time Blade presented by Urwerk for the upcoming Only Watch auction on November 5th 2023, and it was showcased in their Geneva space to give the public an early glimpse.

Urwerk Space-Time Blade
Urwerk for Only Watch Space-Time Blade

The inspiration to create this “table-watch” is clearly drawn from a lightsaber, while the method of displaying time pays homage to the Nixie tubes from the 1950s, which introduced a new way of displaying hours using glow discharge. In addition to the basic mode, which simply scrolls the numbers on each of the eight available slots without displaying the time, there are five different time indications:

  • Display of hours, minutes, and seconds.
  • Display of hours, minutes, seconds, one-tenth, and one-hundredth of a second.
  • Display of kilometers covered in one day (Earth’s rotation at the Equator).
  • Display of kilometers traveled in one day (Earth’s orbit around the Sun).
  • Display of kilometers traveled in one year (Earth’s orbit around the Sun).

This timepiece, as mentioned, will be auctioned at Only Watch, and we’re confident that an item like this will make a striking addition to the lucky buyer’s collection. The estimated selling price is between 45,000 and 80,000 CHF, although we believe it could reach much higher figures.

Louis Erard x The Horophile

As final timepiece within this recap, we’d like to mention the latest release from Louis Erard, born from their collaboration with The Horophile, a well-known figure in the watchmaking landscape.

Louis Erard x The Horophile Petite Seconde Metropolis Tobacco
Louis Erard x The Horophile Small Seconds Tobacco Dial

The watch has been created based on the Louis Erard Petite Seconde collection, maintaining the 39mm stainless steel case and the logo-adorned crown. However, it undergoes a complete transformation thanks to its beautiful dial and distinctive hands. The inspiration for this watch harks back to the Roaring Twenties in America, a century ago, and the Art Deco. The Petite Seconde Metropolis shows the three different dials (Slate, Salmon, and Tobacco), all of them featuring a circular satin motif that, when struck by the right light, reveals various shades. A detail to be remarked is the shape of the hands, nicknamed “Empire,” reminiscent of the iconic New York skyscraper.

The watch is produced in 59 pieces for each dial color, plus a unique piece for The Horophile, and can be purchased directly on the Louis Erard website for 2,300 CHF, which is a truly excellent price for a timepiece with such meticulous craftsmanship.

Written by Tiziano Patti

Born in 2002, I’m a young watch collector and enthusiast always looking to add new pieces to my collection.