During Milano Watch Week, we had the opportunity to sit down with Antoine Pin, CEO of De Bethune, for a conversation that explored some of the most relevant topics in contemporary watchmaking. From the growing prominence of independent brands and the importance of authenticity to the challenges of creativity in the age of social media, Pin offered insightful reflections on the forces shaping the future of the industry.
Aurora: Antoine, first of all, thank you for being with us today. How are you enjoying Milano Watch Week so far?
Antoine Pin: Milan is a city with extraordinary taste and an important market for us. We already have strong relationships here through GMT Milano and with many collectors, so we are delighted to be part of this event.
Aurora: What attracted you most to the world of independent watchmaking?
Antoine Pin: What attracted me to independent watchmaking is the entrepreneurial spirit. These are people who take real risks with their own ideas, money and reputation. They are driven by passion, courage and a clear vision. Their watches are not simply products, but expressions of their convictions and creativity. That authenticity is what makes this world so fascinating.
Aurora: What does it mean for you to move from a background with brands producing hundreds or thousands of watches to something much smaller and independent like De Bethune?
Antoine Pin: The philosophy is completely different. In large-scale brands, production targets are defined first. In independent watchmaking, I believe limited production should be the consequence of real constraints such as talent, know-how, manufacturing capacity and the desire to maintain personal relationships with clients.
At De Bethune we control the entire manufacturing process and our production is naturally limited by what we can genuinely achieve. Scarcity should have a reason behind it. Our objective is not to create value through artificial rarity, but through craftsmanship, creativity and authenticity.
Aurora: How do you see the impact of social media on independent watchmaking?
Antoine Pin: Social media is a remarkable tool, but it also exposes creators to immediate criticism. When independent watchmakers present a new piece, comments often target not only the watch but indirectly the person behind it.
What I admire is that these creators continue despite that pressure. Freedom of expression is fundamental to independent watchmaking. This is also why physical events and salons are becoming increasingly important. People want genuine experiences and direct contact with watches, beyond photographs and online opinions.
Aurora: What is it like working alongside Denis Flageollet, one of the most respected figures in independent watchmaking?
Antoine Pin: The foundation is mutual respect and admiration. Denis has devoted more than two decades to building De Bethune and remains at the heart of the maison.
Whenever a new person joins a company, change inevitably creates some disruption. My role is to contribute while respecting the culture and history that already exist. We are learning how to work together, adjusting progressively, and the quality of our relationship makes that process both productive and exciting.
Aurora: Why do you think independent watchmaking is experiencing such strong growth today?
Antoine Pin: Several factors have changed. Access to suppliers and manufacturing resources is easier than it was decades ago, while collectors increasingly seek individuality, creativity and emotional connection rather than pure functionality.
A mechanical watch today is closer to a personal statement or a piece of wearable art than to a simple instrument. That shift has created space for more independent voices, more experimentation and more diverse forms of creativity. It is one of the reasons watchmaking is currently so dynamic.
Aurora: How does watchmaking fit into the values of today’s world?
Antoine Pin: Modern consumers care about sustainability, durability and long-term value, and watchmaking is naturally aligned with those principles. A quality watch is designed to last for generations rather than being frequently replaced.
The industry is moving toward producing less, but producing better. Durability, quality and a strong secondary market are important characteristics of contemporary watchmaking. These trends particularly favour independent brands, whose limited production reflects genuine craftsmanship and not simply a marketing strategy.
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