The auction season is finally back. On April 25th and 26th, collectors and enthusiasts will once again gather in Monaco as the traditional kickoff unfolds with Monaco Legend Group. Over the past few years, this event has become something of a ritual, an unmissable weekend where passion, scholarship, and the thrill of discovery come together.
And, once again, Monaco Legend delivers. The upcoming sale features an incredible lineup, offering a rare opportunity for collectors and enthusiasts alike to immerse themselves in a carefully curated selection of exceptional watches.
The watches I’ve selected in this article are not necessarily the most important or valuable pieces in the catalog. Instead, they reflect something more personal: pure taste. These are the watches that, for one reason or another, immediately caught my eye.
Lot 37 – Patek Philippe Ref. 565 “Freccero”
The first watch that truly grabbed my attention is a Patek Philippe Calatrava, but not just any Calatrava. This is the reference 565, a model that represents one of the brand’s earliest attempts at creating a waterproof case.
At a time when watches were still largely delicate objects, the ref. 565 introduced a more robust, almost sporty approach to design. Its screw-down caseback and the distinctive “priest’s hat” crown are subtle yet powerful reminders of this shift toward functionality.
The example offered by Monaco Legend is already rare due to its steel construction, a material far less common than gold for Patek at the time. But what truly elevates this piece is the double signature of the Uruguayan retailer Freccero.
Details like this add an extra layer of charm and historical depth, transforming an already desirable watch into something truly special. It’s the kind of piece that quietly tells a story, one that only becomes richer the closer you look.
Lot 61 – Cartier Baignoire “London”
In this catalog, Monaco Legend has assembled a remarkably strong and diverse selection of Cartier watches, a brand that, in recent years, has been consistently breaking records at auction, especially when it comes to vintage pieces and unconventional shapes.
Among this impressive lineup, I couldn’t resist highlighting my favorite Cartier form: the Baignoire.
The example featured here is even more compelling thanks to its London case, a detail that adds a unique layer of collectibility and mystique. While similar in spirit to Paris-made pieces, London Cartier watches often carry a distinct charm tied to their slightly different production and design nuances.
Dating back to 1964, arguably one of the most creative golden periods for Cartier, this watch perfectly captures the maison’s bold and artistic identity. Powered by a movement from Jaeger-LeCoultre and preserved in outstanding condition, it stands as a testament to Cartier’s ability to merge elegance with experimentation.
Given the strong results seen in recent months for high-quality Baignoire examples, often exceeding €100,000, it wouldn’t be surprising to see this lot continue that trend.
Lot 98 – Patek Philippe Ref. 605 HU “North America”
From wristwatches, we now move into something entirely different, but equally captivating. Lot 898 is a Patek Philippe reference 605 HU, a pocket watch produced in the 1940s that perfectly encapsulates the maison’s ability to blend technical mastery with artistic expression.
At its core lies one of Patek Philippe’s most celebrated complications: the world time. But what makes this piece truly special is the central cloisonné enamel dial depicting North America, a miniature work of art that transforms the watch into something far beyond a timekeeping instrument.
There’s something incredibly compelling about these pieces today. Pocket watch collecting is quietly but steadily regaining traction, and while watches like this have never really lost their importance, they are once again being appreciated for what they truly represent: the purest expression of high watchmaking.
This watch, to me, is a perfect summary of what Patek Philippe stands for. Technical innovation, yes, but also poetry. The dial alone is enough to stop you in your tracks: a vivid, almost dreamlike representation of North America that showcases not only the craftsmanship of enamel work, but also the romantic side of horology.
Lot 246 – Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi”
If the 565 represented one of Patek’s early attempts at water resistance in a time-only watch, the reference 1463 takes that concept into the world of chronographs.
Nicknamed “Tasti Tondi” for its distinctive round pushers, this model is one of the very few vintage Patek Philippe chronographs designed with a waterproof case, featuring, once again, a screw-down caseback. It’s a rare intersection of sportiness and refinement, something that Patek has always handled with incredible subtlety.
Finding a 1463 in steel is already a challenge. But this example goes several steps further.
The warm, pink-toned dial, signed by the historic Italian retailer Hausmann & Co., gives the watch an entirely different personality. There’s a softness to it, a kind of understated warmth that contrasts beautifully with the technical nature of the chronograph.
Even more importantly, the condition appears untouched, unrestored, something collectors value more than almost anything else today.
To complete the picture, the presence of a bracelet signed by Gay Frères adds yet another layer of desirability.
Lot 282 – Vacheron Constantin “Reverso”
To close this selection, I wanted to include something truly unexpected.
This Vacheron Constantin is, on paper, a simple time-only watch. But in reality, it’s anything but ordinary.
What makes it exceptional is its reversible case, a concept most famously associated with the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre. However, this is not just an homage or reinterpretation.
Produced in only five examples in 1933, this model exists thanks to a formal agreement between two of Switzerland’s greatest maisons. In order to use the patented reversible case system, Vacheron Constantin had to obtain special permission from Jaeger-LeCoultre and pay a royalty of 60 francs per watch, a remarkable detail that highlights both the exclusivity and legitimacy of this piece.
Pieces like this almost never appear on the market. In fact, this is believed to be only the second Vacheron Constantin “Reversible” ever offered at public auction, the first having surfaced at Antiquorum in 2003, achieving over CHF 80,000.
What I love about this watch is that it challenges expectations. We’re used to seeing Vacheron Constantin dominate headlines with grand complications, but here, the magic lies in design and narrative.
Sometimes, simplicity, when backed by the right story, is far more powerful than complexity.
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