We’re approaching one of the most exciting times of the year for watch enthusiasts: the Geneva autumn auctions. In the coming days, some of the world’s most prestigious auction houses will be offering truly extraordinary timepieces, masterpieces that embody the very best of horological history.
After the remarkable results achieved by Monaco Legend a few weeks ago, it’s now Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Antiquorum, and Phillips taking the stage, each aiming to set new records. Browsing through their catalogues, it’s hard not to feel that we’re in for quite a show.
Between headline-grabbing top lots, important private collections, and themed celebratory auctions, Geneva once again proves itself to be the ultimate stage for collectors and watch lovers alike.
In this article, I’ll explore why this weekend promises to be so fascinating, which lots are worth keeping an eye on, and, most importantly, the stories behind a few exceptional pieces we may not have the chance to see again anytime soon.
The star of the weekend, one of four 1518 in Stainless Steel
Not long ago, when Phillips announced that they would be auctioning one of the four stainless steel reference 1518s, I felt compelled to write about it, partly because of the sheer rarity of the piece, and partly because of the unusual timing of the sale, considering that Monaco Legend is also handling another example through a private transaction.
Well, what can I say, the day of the much-anticipated auction, and the potential new record, is fast approaching. Judging by the buzz this weekend’s events are already generating, I have little doubt that being in the room when this lot goes under the hammer will be quite an experience.
The last time this particular watch appeared at auction was back in 2016. Who knows how many years will pass before we see another one, once this example, and the Monaco Legend piece, change hands? Given the history and the mystique surrounding this reference, it’s fair to say that it represents the very pinnacle of vintage collecting, and of Patek Philippe itself.
A tribute to Breguet
To mark the 250th anniversary of the Breguet brand, Sotheby’s has decided to organize a special, single-theme auction celebrating the extraordinary legacy of this historic name. From the earliest pocket watches crafted by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself, to the remarkable creations that, beginning in the 1980s, restored the brand’s greatness on the world stage of fine watchmaking, this sale is a true tribute to horological excellence.
Taking place on November 9, the auction will feature around seventy watches that together tell the story of Breguet, from magnificent complications to pieces once owned by notable figures.
My personal favorite is Lot 72, a stunning gold pocket watch with perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater functions, further enhanced by a linear display showing the day of the week, month, and date. What makes this watch even more fascinating to me is the period in which it was produced, the 1930s, a time when, despite retaining the founder’s technical heritage, the brand was far removed from its golden years of success. Those glory days would only return decades later, with the revival led by the Chaumet brothers and the creative genius of Daniel Roth.
A watch for every taste,
What I find truly fascinating about this weekend is how the entire watch world seems to gather in one place, where everyone, from the seasoned collector to the young enthusiast, can discover something captivating to study, to try on the wrist, and perhaps to fight for in order to add to their collection.
Among the many lots coming up for auction, I’ll reveal a bit of my hand by sharing the three pieces I’m most excited to see up close and try on.
From Christie’s, even though it’s far beyond my budget and highly coveted among collectors, there’s the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 “The Doctor”, to which Giovanni has dedicated an entire article.
At Antiquorum, the first lot I’ll be aiming for is definitely Lot 574, an incredible Breguet perpetual calendar ref. 3050, a watch that perfectly embodies that vibrant spirit of the 1990s when the brand experienced a true renaissance.
And finally, one of my all-time favorite Day-Date configurations appears as Lot 83 at Phillips, a stunning yellow gold model with a Bloodstone dial, beautifully accented by “Pin Ball” hour markers.
So, what about you, which one’s your favorite?
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