Among the highlights of the upcoming The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, Phillips will offer a fascinating and highly unusual Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 3998. Appearing as Lot 93, the yellow-gold watch, nicknamed “VILIP STERKK”, carries an estimate of CHF 80,000–160,000 and is believed to have been intended for none other than renowned French designer Philippe Starck.
Its probable provenance adds considerably to its appeal. According to Phillips, the watch was most likely presented to Starck by the late Qatari prince and prolific art collector Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al Thani, who commissioned the French designer for projects linked to Qatar’s cultural ambitions.
The clue lies on the dial itself: its Egyptian hieroglyphs appear to spell “VILIP” at six o’clock and “STERKK” at twelve, a phonetic rendering of Starck’s name.
Produced in 2002, the watch features a 34mm yellow-gold case and is powered by Patek Philippe’s automatic calibre 315 SC. An Extract from the Archives confirms that it was originally produced with hieroglyph hour markers, underlining that the extraordinary dial is not a later modification made by a somewhat eccentric collector, but an integral part of the watch’s history.
One of Only a Handful
The “VILIP STERKK” that Phillips will auction next weekend is not the only Calatrava known with such an extraordinary dial. At least four examples of reference 3998 with Egyptian hieroglyph markers are known, all made between 2002 and 2003 in yellow gold, platinum and titanium. A further similar example has also been spotted on the wrist of artist David Hockney, although its serial number remains unknown.
Rather than diminishing its appeal, the existence of other examples places the Starck watch within an exceptionally limited and intriguing group, whose individual dials appear to establish connections with some of the most prominent figures of contemporary art, photography and design.
An unconventional dial transforms one of Patek Philippe’s most understated designs
Perhaps the greatest fascination of these watches lies in a striking aesthetic contradiction. The reference 3998 is, in essence, an exercise in restraint and sobriety: compact, elegant and unmistakably classical. Its proportions and yellow-gold case belong to the most traditional vocabulary of the Calatrava.
Against this sober background, however, the hieroglyphic dial feels almost subversive. It brings personality, mystery and an unexpected touch of eccentricity to a watch that would otherwise embody discretion. It is precisely this tension between classicism and individuality that makes the “VILIP STERKK” so compelling.
A recent result sets an intriguing precedent for the upcoming sale
There is also a particularly relevant auction precedent. At The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII in May 2026, Phillips offered another yellow-gold reference 3998, the unique “HALMUT NAUTUN”, whose hieroglyphs are believed to refer to legendary photographer Helmut Newton. Carrying the same CHF 80,000–160,000 estimate, the watch ultimately sold for an impressive CHF 444,500, almost three times its upper estimate.
That result inevitably casts the upcoming sale of the “VILIP STERKK” in a different light. Its extreme rarity, unusual aesthetic character and probable connection to one of the most influential designers of the modern era give it all the ingredients that collectors tend to pursue enthusiastically.
With Phillips once again setting an estimate of CHF 80,000–160,000, the figure may prove decidedly cautious. If the extraordinary performance of the “HALMUT NAUTUN” is any indication, it would hardly be surprising to see the “VILIP STERKK” sail well beyond its high estimate when the hammer eventually falls.
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