After conducting some proper pre-auction preparation for the upcoming Monaco Legend Auction on October 31st and November 1st, I decided to share some of my favorite picks. If I could, I would write about all the watches in the catalogue, because each and every one is special and unique and deserves to be highlighted. However, I chose the five coolest.
LOT 30 – Vacheron Constantin ‘Cioccolatone’
In this auction, Monaco Legend has quite a good selection of Triple Calendar Moonphase watches. One of the prime examples is Lot 30: an extremely rare and amazing Vacheron Constantin Triple Calendar Moonphase in the highly desirable ‘Cioccolatone’ curved rectangular case.
This extraordinary model was sold in 1952 and housed in a pink gold case produced by the legendary Geneva casemaker Ponti & Gennari, as indicated by the key number 26 inside the case. Measuring 36 x 43 mm, it was huge for its time. The combination of its design and technically sophisticated movement was a bold statement back then.
This specific reference, 4764, was produced between 1953 and 1964, with only 47 examples made. Just 6–8 pieces are known to have been produced in pink gold, making this watch particularly special. Its estimate stands at €200,000–400,000.
I am a big fan of Triple Calendar Moonphase watches in general, thanks to their complicated nature and full, lively dials. Each one has its own personality, whether it is a LeCoultre, a Rolex 6062 or this Cioccolatone. This particular example, however, is so different and special to me that I cannot wait to try it on my wrist during the preview in Monaco.
LOT 208 – Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar
Continuing with another unique Triple Calendar and a worthy competitor to the Cioccolatone, Lot 208 is a possibly unique Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Moonphase in platinum.
AP launched its first Triple Calendar in 1924, and by 1954, the manufacture had produced only 48 examples across all metals. This specific lot was sold by Van Cleef & Arpels in France in 1927, which explains the inscription ‘Importé de Suisse’ at 6 o’clock on the dial.
For me, it is unbelievable that such technically sophisticated watches could be built over 100 years ago, making this example even more remarkable. The watch features applied Breguet numerals, a manually wound movement, and displays the date, day, month and moon phases on the dial. At the moment, this platinum example is the only known Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar in this metal.
Interestingly, the estimate for this particular watch is the same as for the Vacheron: €200,000–400,000. I am excited to see which of these two watches fetches the higher price. It could well be the AP, though. We’ll see.
LOT 126 – Audemars Piguet Disco Volante
Lot 126 is an Audemars Piguet Disco Volante, double-signed by Gübelin and dating to the 1960s.
This 35 mm white gold, manually wound piece has everything I love about vintage watch design: a thin, flying-saucer-shaped case, a hobnail bezel, and an integrated white gold mesh bracelet that adds even more charm to its already distinctive silhouette.
The double-signed Gübelin dial is a real highlight, with its finish and intricate silvery-grey lines and circles creating a lively, almost hypnotic effect without ever feeling over the top. Produced in limited numbers and preserved in remarkable condition, it strikes that perfect balance between understated elegance and unconventional design.
Estimated at €15,000–30,000, it is a watch that stands out not by shouting for attention, but through the beauty of its details.
LOT 214 – Cartier Baignoire London
The Cartier Baignoire from John Goldberger’s private collection, dating to around 1971, is probably my favourite pick from the upcoming auction.
With its perfectly proportioned 23 x 31 mm yellow gold case, the watch is neither too big nor too small; it hits just that sweet spot. Originally conceived in the 1910s, the Baignoire’s distinctive bathtub-shaped silhouette is as elegant today as ever.
This example has some fascinating details, bearing London hallmarks and two tiny owls stamped on the caseback, indicating the French import of 18k gold. Even the clasp matches the case number, while the initials JC inside the caseback point to Jacques Cartier, the casemaker, alongside the letter “q”, indicating the year 1971.
The Baignoire is estimated to fetch around €12,000–24,000. However, in my opinion, it will go for more than €24,000.
With the trend moving towards more compact watches, style icon Alessandro Squarzi has shown just how effortlessly they can work on a man’s wrist. And wearing a Baignoire is an experience of its own: it feels more like a beautifully crafted leather bracelet, with an oval watch seamlessly integrated into it.
The design is exceptional, but the way it feels on the wrist is what really makes it special.
LOT 234 – Patek Philippe Ref. 2499
Few watches capture the golden age of complicated watchmaking quite like the Patek Philippe reference 2499.
Produced in 1982, this yellow gold example combines a manually wound chronograph with a perpetual calendar and moonphase, all housed in a 37.5 mm case. Introduced in 1950 as the successor to the legendary reference 1518, the 2499 is one of the most celebrated combinations of complications in watchmaking, with only 349 examples produced across its entire production run.
This watch belongs to the fourth and final series, identifiable by its round chronograph pushers, applied baton numerals, outer seconds divisions and sapphire crystal.
But what makes this particular example truly special is its case: it is the first reference 2499 ever cased by Patek Philippe itself, rather than by external casemakers Emile Vichet and, later, Wenger SA of Geneva. It is a fascinating detail that adds another layer of historical significance to an already iconic reference.
With an estimate of €700,000–1,400,000, this is far more than a beautiful vintage chronograph. It is a piece of Patek Philippe history, representing one of the most important eras in the evolution of complicated wristwatches.
Imagine wearing an extremely rare Patek Philippe reference, and then imagine wearing the first one of its kind. Unimaginable.
Follow us on our social media channels to stay up to date with the latest news from the world of watchmaking, and discover what’s new on Watchype.
