As the year comes to a close, it’s that familiar moment when we start taking stock of what has just happened. For collectors and watch enthusiasts, this is also the season of speculation: looking back at the brands that stood out, and looking ahead to what, or who, might be the next big success story.
And if we take a moment to analyze the past few months, it’s hard not to notice that Breguet has quietly, but very convincingly, put itself back at the center of the conversation.
Between the success of the Sotheby’s mono-thematic auction celebrating the brand’s 250th anniversary and the strong reception of recent collections, most notably the wristwatch Souscription, which went on to win the GPHG, all signs point toward a very promising year ahead. Add to that the arrival of a new CEO, Gregory Kissling, who took the helm in October 2024, and the future starts to look not just interesting, but genuinely exciting.
Breguet’s heritage and technical knowledge are, quite simply, extraordinary, arguably ahead of many competitors. But that doesn’t make the job easier when it comes to creating new pieces that resonate with today’s market. Remaining faithful to the ideas of Abraham-Louis Breguet while still evolving stylistically is no small challenge. The brand inevitably depends on how the market responds at a given historical moment.
Right now, however, the timing feels almost perfect.
Trends and identity
We are seeing a return to slightly smaller cases, more restrained proportions, and a renewed appreciation for fine finishing and technical elegance. While many collectors have always cared about these details, the recent wave of independent watchmaking, and the attention it has brought to craftsmanship and lightness of touch, has certainly helped sharpen the collective eye.
In this context, Breguet once again finds itself ahead of the curve, without needing to risk diluting its identity. By staying classical, focusing on complications, and maintaining those elegant coin-edge cases that slip effortlessly under a shirt cuff, the brand reinforces its DNA rather than chasing trends.
This year’s creations, even if they can’t yet be directly attributed to the vision of the new CEO, are a perfect example of that balance. They innovate without being trapped by tradition, and they respect the brand’s identity without being constrained by it.
The Subscription wristwatch that won the GPHG is perhaps the clearest illustration. It takes a clean, classical design that still feels distinctive, the single-hand display is a rarity in modern watchmaking, and draws directly from a watch designed over 200 years ago. Yet it doesn’t feel nostalgic or academic. On the contrary, it communicates, very clearly, what Breguet stands for, and it does so with remarkable accuracy. It’s a statement piece, and a very successful one.
This brings us to what I like to call the re-rebirth of Breguet.
After the significant revival the brand experienced in the 1980s under figures like Daniel Roth and the Chaumet brothers, Breguet now faces a different, but equally complex, challenge: introducing a brand of immense historical importance to a new generation of collectors. Younger enthusiasts, or those who have only recently entered the world of watch collecting, rarely approach Breguet as their first stop, and understandably so. But over time, as their knowledge deepens, Breguet becomes essential to understanding watchmaking as a whole.
And this is where the long-term potential lies.
If I had to take a position, I’d say that Breguet collecting, especially when we look at neo-vintage pieces from the 1990s and early 2000s, has real room to grow. These watches were produced in relatively limited numbers, and as appreciation for the brand continues to rise, they are likely to become increasingly sought after. All the conditions are there for a rediscovery by the market, not just in the coming weeks, but in the years ahead.
Taking inspiration from Independents
If I were to make a bold comparison, not in terms of market dynamics, because independents follow a different path, I would liken Breguet’s potential to that of Journe. Why? Because behind both brands stand two of the most important watchmakers in history. Creations born from their drawings, their intellect, and their vision can be appreciated on a similar level, even if they speak to different audiences.
Breguet doesn’t need to reinvent itself. It simply needs to be understood. And right now, it feels like the world is finally ready to listen.
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