2025 has been a genuinely interesting year for watchmaking. The global community of enthusiasts keeps growing, even if the modern luxury watch market has cooled slightly compared to the extraordinary boom of three or four years ago. Demand, however, remains strong, and walking into a boutique still often means facing long waiting lists for the most desirable pieces. Brands are well aware of this reality and, throughout the year, continued to build on their momentum by presenting new models designed to reinforce their success. In this article, we take a look back at some of the most compelling and talked-about releases of 2025.
Rolex Land-Dweller
The most important release from the most important brand could only come from Rolex, and the Land-Dweller 40 mm was without question the most discussed watch of the year. With this model, Rolex brought the integrated bracelet back into the spotlight, embracing a design language deeply rooted in the 1970s. It is a direction that has proven immensely successful in recent years for brands like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe, all riding the enduring appeal of iconic ’70s designs.
Still extremely difficult to obtain at authorized dealers, the Land-Dweller initially divided opinions. Many enthusiasts were unsure about the squared case and bold aesthetics. Over time, however, sentiment shifted. The watch has found success on the secondary market and growing appreciation among collectors, who are increasingly drawn to its distinctive shapes, the technical sophistication of the movement, and the fact that it brings something genuinely new to the Rolex lineup.
Richard Mille RM 43-01
Richard Mille, one of the most influential independent brands in modern watchmaking, had a perfect stage in 2025. Between the ongoing collaboration with Ferrari and the arrival of Lewis Hamilton into the brand’s orbit, expectations were high. The RM 43-01 delivered on every level.
A split-second chronograph tourbillon, it is an extraordinary technical statement that fully reflects the shared values of performance, innovation, and extreme engineering. While the price places it firmly out of reach for most collectors, this watch perfectly captures the identity of both Richard Mille and Ferrari. Seeing such a piece on the wrist of the most successful Formula 1 driver of all time felt like a natural and powerful moment for the brand.
MB&F SP1
MB&F, under the creative vision of Max Büsser, had another strong year, introducing several notable watches and unveiling a completely new collection: Special Projects. The SP1 is the first expression of this new line, joining the Horological Machines and Legacy Machines within the brand’s universe. It is a different kind of MB&F watch, more restrained yet still deeply captivating. As the independent watch market continues to grow, designs that are slightly more classical, while remaining true to a strong identity, are proving increasingly successful.
The SP1 does exactly that, opening the brand to a wider audience without losing its unmistakable character.
Breguet Classic Souscription
Celebrating its 250th anniversary, Breguet marked the occasion with the Classic Souscription, a watch that looks directly to the brand’s origins. Inspired by the historic Subscription watches conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it features a single hand and a beautifully executed white enamel dial.
The result is an elegant, historically grounded timepiece that feels remarkably relevant today. Breguet handled this anniversary with great sensitivity, and the Classic Subscription became one of the standout releases of the year, earning the brand the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie. It is a much-deserved recognition and a hopeful sign for the future of one of watchmaking’s most important maisons after several challenging years.
Vacheron Constantin Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin also celebrated a major milestone in 2025, marking 270 years of uninterrupted history. The brand chose to honor this achievement by staying true to its refined and timeless design language. Among the most impressive releases was the ultra-thin perpetual calendar, offered in several variations.
With elegant proportions and restrained case sizes, these watches perfectly express Vacheron Constantin’s identity. They are discreet, technically impressive, and quietly confident, qualities that continue to define the brand’s enduring appeal.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Chronograph RD#5
Audemars Piguet once again proved that it knows how to innovate within one of the most recognizable designs in watchmaking. The Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Chronograph RD#5 was met with widespread enthusiasm from collectors. Combining an ultra-thin chronograph construction with a tourbillon, it pushes technical boundaries while remaining unmistakably Royal Oak.
The watch shows how the brand continues to evolve its most successful line, delivering meaningful innovation without compromising the essence that made it iconic in the first place.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Platinum Ref. 6196
Launching a successful time-only classical watch in today’s market is no easy task. Designs are deeply established, and expectations are incredibly high. Yet Patek Philippe managed to hit the mark with the Calatrava reference 6196 in platinum.
The combination of the precious metal case and a beautifully executed salmon dial results in a watch that feels both timeless and fresh. It is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful releases of the year and a reminder that simplicity, when executed at the highest level, remains incredibly powerful.
Conclusion
Looking back, 2025 was a year defined by thoughtful evolution rather than dramatic change. Brands focused on refining their identities, celebrating heritage, and delivering watches that resonate emotionally as well as technically. Now all eyes turn to 2026, and it will be interesting to see whether the industry continues along this confident path or surprises us with something entirely new.
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