As promised, our column dedicated to independent watchmaking is back, with a special focus on those brands that, despite offering an accessible entry price, manage to stand out through exceptional design and distinctive technical features.
After taking a closer look at the stunning dials of Dennison, today it’s time to turn our attention to a brand that has made its unique way of displaying time, and the bold design of its cases, the true hallmark of its identity: Gagà Laboratorio.
Let’s dive in.
A new bold take on the jumping hour
The Gagà Laboratorio project is a relatively recent venture.
In 2020, Ruben Tomella, already involved in the Gagà Milano project, decided to embark on a new journey in the world of watchmaking. Drawing on the extensive knowledge he had gained over the years, he set out with a clear vision: to blend Swiss precision with Italian design, creating a timepiece that would break free from the conventions of traditional watchmaking.
To bring this vision to life, Ruben turned to a designer as visionary as himself, Mo Coppoletta. For enthusiasts like myself, his name will certainly ring a bell thanks to the Tattoo-Inspired Limited Edition from the Bulgari Finissimo line.
Over the years, the result has been a truly distinctive case design: a round case with the crown positioned at 12 o’clock and lugs that, in my opinion, are the real touch of class. They almost appear to be composed of two separate elements, a feature highlighted in certain models that combine polished and satin finishes. To my eye, these details echo some of the most elegant design interpretations from the 1950s by several renowned watchmakers.
But the magic of Gagà Laboratorio’s creations doesn’t stop at the case.
What truly captivates is the fascinating way these watches display the time: an aperture at 12 o’clock reveals the hours, while a smaller window closer to the center marks the minutes. As it completes its rotation over the course of an hour, this little window beautifully illustrates the passage of time, a poetic twist on traditional time indication.
Why it’s worth adding one in your collection
Gagà Laboratorio, much like Dennison, which we discussed a few days ago, continues to impress with what it manages to offer at such a reasonable price point.
We’re talking about roughly €4,500 for everything an independent watch brand should embody, in my opinion: a fresh and distinctive approach, whether in terms of design, mechanics, or underlying philosophy and inspiration.
In this case, design takes center stage. Thanks to Mo Coppoletta’s creative touch, the brand truly manages to stand out from the crowd. And details are by no means an afterthought. As Ruben himself says, the goal was to pursue beauty, something achievable only through the details. From the beautifully legible dial to the hidden touches, like the rotor showing also the logo or the meticulously crafted lugs, every element speaks of intention and care.
Forgive my enthusiasm, but the contrast between the polished and dark finishes of the Bauhaus model is a detail that genuinely struck me when I had it on my wrist, even more so considering the watch’s price.
It wouldn’t surprise me if, in the near future, we started seeing one of these on the wrist of an athlete or a film star, and if finding one became quite the challenge.
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